Whether he was suited up for his role as Creative Director of Dior in the Fifties or wearing his trademark bug-eye specs at Studio 54 in the Seventies, Yves Saint Laurent was undeniably one of the best-dressed men of the last century. Safe to say then that Yves Saint Laurent - the first of two biopics about the designer to be released this year - will be one of the most stylish of 2014.
However, spanning three tumultuous decades from 1957 to 1976, what was it about Saint Laurent himself that made him stylish and how do you go about translating that to the cinema screen? We called the film's costume designer Madeline Fontaine at her home in Provence to talk dressing star Pierre Niney as the designer, the state of French menswear and Hedi Slimane's recent YSL revamp.
GQ: How did you go about putting together the costumes together for Yves Saint Laurent?
Madeline Fontaine: Most of the pieces we used for the collections on the catwalk are taken from the Fondation Pierre Berge [in Paris]. There we could use most of the pieces from Dior and Saint Laurent. However the big "mythic" pieces like the wedding dress from his first collection for Christian Dior in '58 we had to make because they've subsequently disappeared.
What was the most challenging thing about designing for this film?
One thing was that the other characters surrounding Saint Laurent in the film are people known by the public back then and now - people already have a preconception of what they will be like. However the real challenge is that it's a film about couture - something very special, very elegant and, more than that, crossing 20 years. That evolution needed to be fluid and credible in the costumes - especially with characters that were seen as the pinnacle of elegance in each decade.
What did you learn about Yves Saint Laurent as a designer by dressing Pierre Niney?
I learnt about the strength and fragility of his creativity. I felt [Yves had] a very delicate sensibility. When it came to his work he was dressing women with a degree of respect and tenderness that was rare at the time. That was his talent.
What was your favourite item that Pierre wore as Saint Laurent?
I'm not sure I had a favourite - I tried to be as fair as possible in what he was wearing! I was very influenced by what I saw at the Fondation and in books about Yves and I liked how, like all creators, he was constantly looking around himself for ideas to use in his own fashion. He dared to dress differently by wearing pullovers under jackets or growing his hair long and challenged what men saw as elegant (which at the time was mostly suits). What's really interesting is seeing how Yves' style changes across the timeframe of the film from the guy we see at the beginning at Dior to the guy we're left with at the end of the Seventies.
What inspired you from the period?
I especially loved reading Beautiful People [by Alicia Drake] which had a lot of shots of the people I was designing costumes for as they were at that time. I crossed these decades myself, so I remember what it was like from inside so I drew on that. Inspiration came from everywhere. Of course L'amour Fou, the documentary made by the Fondation, influenced me greatly.
It seems the Seventies are having a moment right now with Tom Ford taking inspiration from the decade and also American Hustle having such success…
Yes, it's a very glamorous period which is why it keeps coming back. Now people who are hitting 25 or 30 are wanting to dress how their parents did back then. In fact you could see that in the Seventies themselves, as there were noticeable throwbacks to the Fifties. It's a constant spiral and retreat. The Eighties will come back soon…
Saint Laurent has undergone one of the biggest re-brands in fashion history recently. What do you think the man himself would think of that?
Well it's very difficulty to take responsibility for the creativity of a line and I think he's doing what's current. Slimane's a very talented man - I'm not sure Saint Laurent would have done what Slimane is doing, but - like Saint Laurent - Slimane is inspired by what's happening around him. That's what nourishes his creations and he's doing what he needs to do to keep the label in fashion.
While Slimane is doing something totally different to what Yves did, I feel he would respect how he's changed the fashion landscape in a similar way...
I mean I can't really say, but I would agree with that.
The film focuses heavily on how Saint Laurent liberated women through the way he dressed them. What did he do for men?
He taught men to not see suits as the most elegant item they could own, from safari jackets to his hippy chic. He opened men to the idea that they could be fashionable and elegant without being strict, without needing to conform.
What do you think French men do better than British men, style-wise?
Nowadays I'm not sure it's that clear cut. There's a lot of influence from Italy, America and England - such as Paul Smith - in France right now. I feel that the current menswear movement happening here isn't hugely French - it's very international.
What can a man today learn about style from the film?
I hope he learns from the elegance which is there from the beginning from the end. I would love to hear what they learn - perhaps you can tell me!